Frightening times...

Well, back in Cusco, and although its easy to avoid news of the ¨real¨ world (and it by real the world is war torn with no end in sight, I´ll take the ¨fake¨ world of relative oblivion) and in a bit of a funk over my impending departure and the state of...well everything not here.

Cusco is preparing for the Independence Celebrations of Peru all this week- the same week in which ¨increasing violence against women in Peru¨ made headlines worldwide thanks to CNN.com and the AP. The middle east as we all known is a virtual disaster and I guess in times like these its hard to be hopeful; hopeful for peace, hopeful for positive change, hopeful for your own safety (and by that I mean the strategic location of Washington, DC when I return home in a few short weeks and NOT the violence against women in Peru- I have not had ONE moment in all my time here in which I´ve feared for my own safety).

Anyway, sorry to be depressing and down, sometimes its all just a bit too much I suppose. I´m sure I´m not the only one to feel this way but on a selfish level, it all just makes me less willing to go home. I am looking forward to school, seeing my family and friends again and starting anew (in a way) in DC but I also have trepidation about going back to the heart of US politics and rhetoric which I can´t say I always agree with (ha ha).

Blah, ok enough of that. I suppose that was actually me sharing ¨feelings¨ in my blog. haha. a rarity. Hmm, heavy on the sarcasm today.

However there are many exciting things in the air, in addition to all these Peru parties and parades (I swear any excuse for a parade here!), Dana and Joanna will be here soon, Miss Adrienne will be celebrating her 2nd set of nuptiuals with Mike on Saturday (in the UK alas) and Bolivia (although NOT the 15 hour day ride back) and life here is good. So, on the posivitve side, everything in my immediate world is great even if the outlying world is in turmoil. I guess its really the only way you can look at things when the world is going crazy around you, huh?

Pics from Bolivia soon and hopefully a little mini photo essay on the hats of Peru :)

The other Copacabana (in Bolivia)

Well, my whirlwind trip to Bolivia has wound down and I will be leaving La Paz direct for Cusco tomorrow morning (Tuesday). I left Cusco on a night bus Thursday and after a relatively short but COLD ride arrived to the lovely city by the smelly lake (its not all smelly, just by the bus station which happens to be by the sewage treatment plant which HAPPENED to be flooded a few years ago by rising waters e.g. smelly Puno) at 5am, a lovely hour to sit in an unheated bus station, wearing every item of clothing I own AND a sleeping bag for two hours while waiting for the bus to Copacabana. You would think with the hundreds of tourists that daily go from Puno to Copacabana (it is the most popular and accesible way of entering Bolivia and vice versa) that there would be a direct bus. But alas, no.

Anyway, after the sun came up, things were a bit warmer, and I walked across the border from Peru to Bolivia, which is really kinda cool. I've never had to walk accross a border before! The bus drove 2 hours from Puno, stopped at Peruvian immigration (the inspiration for this trip being that my 90 day tourist visa was about to expire) got stamped and then walked across and did the same on the Bolivian side before reboarding the bus. Yay, no I can legally reenter Peru!

I spent a few days chilling in Copacabana which is a lovely, but SMALL little town. I am loving the exchange rate which is currently about $8 USD to 1 Boliviano. SWEET. Got to stay in the nicest hotel in town for under $20! Great lake views of Titicaca and hot water, can't beat that. The architecture, as in most non-colonial cities in Andean countries (meaning almost all of them) is lacking but when you are staring at Lake Titicaca and can barely see Peru in the distance, you can't complain too much.
Saturday was spent on a day trip to Isla del Sol, the birthplace of the Inca Empire (and the sun according to legend). The tour involved the slowest boat ever but was beautiful (and tiring) as once on the island it took about 3 hours to hike from one end to the other at over 12,000 feet in altitude! It is truly amazing how much Titicaca looks like the Aegean Sea and the Greek Islands- really something else. Saw lots of interesting ruins on Isla del Sol and fell in love with the cutest dog ever (sorry, Princess) who unfortunately couldn't make the trip home with me :( Spent the rest of the day walking about in my massive felt hat to prevent further high altitude sun damage and as usual froze at night- ahh the weather extremes of the Andes!

Copacabana is a really quiet town but has a huge Moorish style cathedral and Sunday was especially interesting as it marked the weekly "blessing of the cars" in which every car in town shows up in front of the cathedral, desked out in ribbons, saints, flowers and is BLESSED with wine, beer, champagne, incense and apparently firecrackers by priests from the cathedral! Truly one of the more entertaining and unique things I have seen in my travels. (Also an indicator of Bolivian driving which is atrocious, even more frightening that this blessing is done in lieu of insurance!)

The drive to La Paz was uneventful (fortunately, since my bus wasn't blessed, although I saw many others on the road which had been!) and I arrived in La Paz last night, coming in through the crowded swarming slums of El Alto above the city which seem to stretch endlessly in either direction after leaving Titicaca proper. The most amazing aspect of such slums (to me) is that no matter where they are (Cusco, La Paz, Lima etc) is that despite the visibly extreme poverty at some point, someone was hopeful enough to bother building a four story brick building or multiple story adobe structures. Sadly, most lie in ruin, or are mostly abandoned or partially occupied. Another great way of avoiding the local tax system is to just keep building- unfinished construction projects can't be taxed! El Alto also houses the airport, the highest in the world- so high that the oxygen masks routinely pop from the cieling when planes come in for a landing!

Just as El Alto reaches its highest point, the land splits and opens into the massive valley which La Paz spills into from top to bottom, making it truly one of the most unique cities (in terms of layout) that I have ever seen. It is simply massive with buildings stretching as far as the eye can see and Mt, Illiumpi towers above it all, snowcapped and shrouded in a brown tinge from all the smog.

Last night was uneventful as it was Sunday but today was spent exploring downtime which is centered in the steepest most central part of the valley. Thing San Fran x10. It is one of those cities where you think "where on earth did all these people come from?" it is serious human traffic...and speaking of traffic there are few laws that are obeyed, the buses are circa 1950 and the sidewalks are so crowded with cholas (Aymara women) in their bowler hats, shawls, and long, multiskirted, pleated, sparkling skirts you have to walk in the middle of the street. Add to this chaos decrepit colonial buildings, new slap dash brickstructures and 5,000 illegal electrical lines coming from every electrical pole and its a wonder it all just doesn't come to a screeching halt. Oh, and did I mention the constant military presence, the witches market, the endless black market (bootleg DVD heaven!) the marching band parade promoting an alliance between Ecuador and Venezuela (Hugo Chavez has had to turn to Ecuador for his Andean alliance between Bolivia and Venezuela since Alan Garcia won the presidential election in Peru). If I thought Lima was huge and sprawling, La Paz in sheer mayhem.

But, it has been a great taste of a crazy city. I've decided to go back to Cusco a day early as I'd have to change hotels tomorrow morning, making mountain biking on the "World's Most Dangerous Road" (remember, Bolivians = bad drivers, even worse roads) impossible. Probably for the best, I already have one scar from two wheeled vehicles in South America, I don't need any more! Its a famous bike ride but one I can make in the future and when I have more funds!

So, home sweet home it is and Dana and Joanna come on Sunday, just in time for my recovery from Peruvian Independence week. Woo hoo!

Surviving Pau-car-tam-bo!

Whew!

Well, after 2 days of rest and healthy eating I can say I officially survived Paucartambo, THE festival of the Andes (as in all the Andean countries, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Chile parts of Argentina and Colombia). I´m not sure that I can actually describe what Paucartambo IS (in addition to exhausting as very little sleep and more than a little beer are involved in the festivities of course but I will try) Also, Wikipedia is lacking in a good entry, or even one in English!

So, Paucartambo is an extremely small town wedged in a valley between the Andes with a river running through it- it is passed through mainly by people going to the jungle which is another cople hours away. Usually there are only about 500 people or so living in the town which is entirely adobe, cobblestone and rather than having blocks, the streets are layed out like steps. (a little crazy). Every year on the 16th of July, over 5,000 people from around Peru and South America (and not many gringo tourists) flock to this teeny town and all of the houses which are usually shut for the year are opened and everyone rents floor space for the weekend. So, I spent a lovely weekend on the rather dirty floor of a rather dirty adobe compound, no shower, no real toilets, basic Andean living with about a million of my closest friends (haha).

The Fiesta del Carmen (or Mamacha Carmen) goes back all the way to the 17th century when the cult surrounding Carmen truly got underway, this weekend is celebrated every year as a reenactment of the history of the culture and its people and their relation Carmen. She is revered, prayed to and celebrated. During his last visit to Peru Pope John Paul II blessed and held a coronation ceremony for the statue of Carmen which was brought to Cusco from Paucartambo especially for his visit.

So, aside from historical details, which I am admittedly sketchy on, the festival is absolutely the most crazy, mindblowing thing I have ever seen. I am not catholic but the power Carmen brings to the people is awe inspiring and I even felt myself caught up in the moment throughout the weekend. The craziest part about the festival asied from the emotion and adoration is the dancing. There are 17 seperate dance groups each of which represent a sector of 17th century society (bread makers, slaves, indians, Chileans, french influences, Devils (sacras), Kings, princesses, traders the list goes on and on.) Each group has their own specific costume (there are between 30 and 60 musicians and dancers per group) and each has a specific, exquisitely designed and painted mask. The dancers and musicians perform their dances (each according to their historical role) ALL weekend long, as in from Saturday morning until Monday night. Its all marching band horn and drum music and each dance is different and unique. The first day (Sat) they march in procession all day long around the square and then all the revelers run around all night dancing at each of the ¨homes¨ (courtayrds in huge adobe compounds) of the dance groups. Sunday there is more dancing and in the afternoon the Virgin is removed from the church and brought around the city on a huge platform, carried on the shoulders of 50 men. She is then brought back into the church carried only by single women amid flower petals, dancing music....words can´t really describe the emotion involved when she rounds the corner and the the reaction of the crowd which they first see her. On Monday there is more dancing and the groups and onlookers all go to the town cemetary- certainly the craziest most beautiful thing I have EVER seen in a cemetary- to pay a visit, dance and pray for members who have passed on. Later the war between two of the dance groups (representing people from the jungle and people from the highlands) which inspired the Carmen cult and was a war for the favor of Carmen is reenacted and she is brought back over the river and returns with one group in victory, the other in defeat. A final dane around the square with all of the dance groups is done (and we are talking hours here) and then the groups retreat to their ¨homes¨ for further celebrating and prayers or thanks.

Whew. I´m not sure I did a good job explaining that at ALL but hopefully the pictures will help illustrate my point. The costumes and masks are absolutely unbelievable and the amount of dancing is mindblowing, how the dancers can even move their feet after four days is a marvel in itself as I felt after just two days as though my legs would fall off from dancing and walking around the town with the dance groups. The devotion to Carmen is amazing and its all so remarkable because she lives in a rather modest church in a teeny town in the middle of nowhere in Peru and she literally draws worldwide devotion and worship. What I found incredibly interesting was the position of the crucified Christ in the church...it was halfway down the aisle, on the side and Carmen, a female virgin takes absolute center stage on the alter attracting crows by the hundreds all day long.

After two days of rest (the trip back was a bear, we were supposed to leave at 9pm on Monday night and didn´t end up getting out of Paucartamble until 11:30, got home to Cusco around 4am, no heat in the car, flat tire etc etc etc) I can officially say that I will make it a point to return to this amazing festival and learn more. I have a friend who has gone 12 times and she is still learning herself. Another friend usually dances but was unable to this year and I´d like to see her out there, mask and all celebrating the beauty and glory of this amazing festival. It certainly touched me, in a way I can´t quite explain, I´m not usually one for iconography but there is something special about this female icon who so many people trust and pray to for salvation, hope and peace.

Until then, after four days in that little town I will look back on the memories of Paucartambo as some of the strongest and best of my entire time in South America. The amount of dancing, revelry and celebration was both exhasuting and exhilirating and I feel privledged to have been able to take part in such a special event.


So, I am currently in Bolivia, in Copacabana, on the far side of Titicaca...enjoying a few days rest, away from the madness of Cusco and have officially exited one Peruvian visa in order to get a new one on the way back in. More news from La Paz...until then...enjoy the heat and summer wherever you are!!

Paucartambo

Well, off today to Paucartambo and unfortunately dealing with the unpleasant experience of getting my plane ticket home (ouch). It is official that even though I am excited about the prospect of school I do not want to leave Cusco!! I love this city, I love this country and I love my life here- leaving is going to be beyond brutal, even though I know I'll be back I know it won't be soon enough. Everything has leveled out so well, work has been great, traveling this week, friends, even Spanish classes...I guess thats the rule of living abroad, as soon as you get really comfortable and love it all (good and bad) you have to leave.

Anyway, in other news, Blake is doing much better and is home from the hospital, so HOORAY! Also, in the big props category, Mormor and Morfar win the first letter sent to me in Peru award and Morstar gets a big hug for sending Mormor the blog print-outs, thanks guys!!

So, I'm off to gather Paucartambo supplies, it should be an interesting weekend to say the least. The town usually has about 700-800 inhabitants, this weekend there will be over 5,000 revelers from all over, dancing, wearing crazy masks and celebrating. You gotta love a country where every weekend there is a huge ass celebration somewhere for (of course) religious events! And, 20 of my friends from near and far here will be squeezed in on the floor of someones house joining in the madness. And then after Bolivia we have Peruvian Independence Day which is already turning into a week of events and celebrations- so many I need a calender to keep them all straight!

So, off to shop and buy tickets home...more after Paucartambo if there is time before my bus to Bolivia :)

Time flies when you´re having fun....

Well, yet another chunk of time has passed without an update. Been too busy living and enjoying Cusco to get online much. Well, that and recovery from Caroline´s grand entrance to Peru and then working, studying and just trying to fit it all in. Also had to unfortunately experience a combination of the two things that are hardest for me being away (aside from missing friends and such). I am extremely close with both of my brothers and Blake had a close call with a Staph infection gone out of control in the past couple weeks. The good news is that everything is fine now and he will make a full recovery but it scared me to death and made me feel farther away than ever. Missing my brothers and worrying that something bad will happen to someone at home that I love are two things I think about most in terms of it being hard being so far away. But, I just got off the phone with the little guy and he sounds great so that is a relief, hopefully he will be home from the hospital tomorrow...thanks to those of you who knew what was going on and sent prayers his way, it is greatly appreciated.

As for events here, Cusco has calmed down, the Plaza de Armas is peaceful but tourism has ramped up. Also, it would appear that as soon as the calendar turned to July 1st I realized just home finite my time here is. I knew it would happen but its never fun when that realization kicks in. So, I am ramping things up big time and making sure I leave without regrets! I fled to the valley to do some work after caroline left and just chill out...went for an amazing hike from the town of Maras to the Inca ruins of Moray which are still a mystery to archeologists- the circular ruins were gorgeous. From Moray it was a hike down to the Salineras which are a HUGE complex of Inca created salt mines. They are free to walk through (bonus!) and are still used to mine salt today. There are over 1,000 pools and it was one of the coolest things I have seen in Cusco. Aside from a slight sunburn (yea yea high altitude, sun, white reflective ponds of salt, DUH!) it was the perfect day and set into gear my plans for the next 5 weeks or so.

Returning to Cusco I got back to work and realized I really only have a week left. Work hasn´t been as fulfilling as I would have liked but I´ve enjoyed it, meeting people and I have learned a lot more about the region. I´ve also become official go to girl for trip planning all over south america which is a good feeling. Last week I also started some intensive spanish classes and will be in class every day for 4 hours until I leave for Paucartambo and Bolivia.

So, after work next week, its off to Paucartambo with about 20 friends and extendeds. The town of Paucartambo is near the boundary of the Cloud Forest Jungle in Manu. For 5 days locals and visitors (mostly Peruvian this isn´t a very tourist event which makes it even cooler) the Feast of the Virgin de Carmen. EVERYONE wears crazy different masks depicting different characters from Peruvian history. Some are sewn, some are paper mache or carved. Needless to say the pics should be something else. On the first day everyone goes to Tres Cruces on the edge of the jungle before dawn to watch the sunrise. Although it is frequently raining in Tres Cruces when it isn´t the sunrise is like nothing you have ever seen. The atmospheric effects make it appear as though there are 3 suns rising (hence the name, 3 crosses). After Paucartambo its back to Cusco for a night then to Bolivia for a week or so before Dana and Jo come to visit. And, of course there is another huge holiday coming up at the end of the month: Peruvian National Independance Day. (of course!) That should be one hell of a party. After Dana and Jo are here, I have another week to enjoy Cusco and then I´ll spend a week traveling to Lima by bus, going to see the Colca Canyon (deepest canyon in the world), condor watching, visit Arequipa, go sand boarding outside of Ica and last but not least fly over the Nasca lines before ending in Lima and finally going home. Whew. That went fast eh?

So, I am off to watch the World Cup Final (added to the mix of Peruvian flags, Cusco rainbow flags still hanging everywhere from Cusco month, Italian and French colors have made appearances in the streets). Yesterday was a lovely day of rest and sun at Lake Urcos, a high altitude lagoon 1/2 hour from Cusco. It was lovely to actually be hot; especially since the nights have been getting colder and colder. It is winter here afterall! So thats all the news that fit to ramble...look for updates after Paucartambo!

Pics finally posted!

New pics finally posted from Puno, Lake Titicaca, Cusco month events, Corpus Christi and more...scroll down through the older original posts to view ´em!

And yes, Caroline WAS here! (Pictured at Barbie´s Drag Queen Birthday party, well either that or at the after party at Mama Africa, with my friend Marisol)